Getting a nice eyebrow shape on oneself is not entirely easy because it is a matter of picking different eyebrow shapes in different ways. Picking eyebrows does not have to be that difficult.
Have you looked at how others show in blogs / youtube / instagram, but then when you have to do the same to yourself, you sit as a question mark?
I have been asked to write a post about how to pluck the eyebrows on oneself in the best way. But it's a bit tricky post to make, because even though I can tell you about the guidelines for picking different eyebrow shapes here and there, it mostly depends on what your own straws look like.
Table of contents of picking different eyebrow shapes:
- Different types of brow hair
- Different types of brow shapes
- Pick eyebrows
- Color the eyebrows
- Fill in the eyebrows
- Brow lift & brow serum
Here is finally some tips, warning for a long post! :)
1. Different types of brow hair
The most difficult thing about following tips for different brow shapes is not only that everyone has different shapes naturally, but also that the straw grows differently.
There are, of course, a billion different varieties, but you can simply divide it into three different ones: Brows that grow upwards, downwards or to the side.
Type 1 - Straws grow upwards
The easiest thing, both when picking and filling in the brow, is to have this variety.
The straight straws in the inner edge automatically form a nice start on the brow, only need to be cut a little. The rest of the brow also grows a lot upwards / a little to the side.
Common mistake: Not cutting with scissors in the front edge. Many people pick with only tweezers, but because the straws are long, it easily results in it being sparse, uneven and in some cases the whole brow becomes too short.
Type 2: Straws growing downwards (in the middle of the brow)
These straws grow straight down and cannot be combed either upwards or to the side.
Common mistake: Not to bother with the scissors, but even here it is a life saver for people who want a high and uplifted shape. The straws are often quite long but hang down, so when you want to get rid of a straw further down, it is still stuck in the mold. If you pick that straw with tweezers, the whole shape becomes sparse and indistinct. Better to cut the straws with scissors!
Some brow hairs can be brushed both up and down or to the side - then you can simply choose how you want them. Upwards and a little to the side is, as I said, easiest if you can choose (as in the first picture). Then you do not have to cut at the bottom edge.
Type 3: Straws growing to the side (at the front edge)
(Just look at the model, because the model is with a brow lift. The straws cannot be brushed upwards without a brow lift)
The straws rarely grow straight down the front edge, but it is very common for them to grow to the side instead of straight up.
Common mistake: It's harder to get a nice front edge on the brow because you can not just cut a little. Many people accidentally pick the brow too short or create cavities, because if you remove a long straw that lies against the brow, it can create a wide hole where the straw has been. Here it is important to pick sparingly, take one straw at a time and be careful. Pick mostly at the bottom and top edge instead of at the front edge.
2. Different types of brow shapes
When I talk about brow shapes in this paragraph, I mean the natural brow shape before one has picked and shaped. So not what shape you want on the end result but what you have naturally.
Type 1 - Clear brow shape
Even though the brow is completely unpicked, you can still distinguish a natural shape quite easily. It has like the "arch" finished already, then it is really just to pick from the underside and clean around the rest.
Common mistake: That you do not follow your own form but stare blindly at e.g. a nice picture you found. Looking at other people's eyebrows is great for knowledge and inspiration, but starting from your own straws is the best!
Type 2 - Unclear brow shape
This brow shape is wide and indistinct, like an unformed lump.
Common mistake: It easily happens that you happen to make a crazy shape because there is no "natural line" to follow. Note by crazy, I do not mean an "ugly style" or similar because it is a matter of taste, but simply that you pick at random and then not at all satisfied because it e.g. is very uneven.
Type 3 - Straight brow shape
A straight shape is also great! This customer wanted a clearer arch and then you need to lower the shape in front and raise the shape in the middle.
Common mistake: Many with straight brow shapes want to do as I picked on this customer, thus raising the shape (which is not a must). But many do not pick below the highest point in the middle of the brow, but instead closer to the start of the brow. It does not raise the brow shape at all but gives the opposite effect, you look more sad instead.
It is difficult to describe in text so I show with a picture instead:
This "floorball club shape" is a very common eyebrow shape that many people want help with. They have then had a straight shape naturally and instead of raising in the middle, they have raised far forward on the brow.
The best thing is to let the straws grow back in the lower edge and then shape as I drew a little quickly in the right picture. So lower the front edge so that you get a lifting shape out towards the middle, instead of the shape leaning down.
3. Pick the eyebrows
In addition to the tips I wrote above, I also thought to write a little "step by step" how I usually do and think when I pluck my eyebrows.
If you have already picked the eyebrows before and want to change shape, I recommend letting them grow as much as possible before. Otherwise, it can be difficult to distinguish any other shape than the one you picked earlier and then you just stare blindly at the old shape.
1. Study the brow - Look in the mirror and study the brow, the best thing is to adapt the shape as much as possible to your own starting position. If possible, keep the shape where it is as dense with straw as possible.
2. Remove excess straw - Start by removing all the straws that you know will not make a difference to the final shape. Pick around the entire eyebrow first, then it is easier to distinguish a shape than if you e.g. start with the inner edge and then try to shape the rest after that.
3. Pick on the top or not? - Many people say that it is a big no no to pick on the top of the brows .. I say: pick 95% from the bottom, but if it is uneven on the top then pick on the top! You should be careful on the top, however, because it is (on many) sparser there and there is a risk that you "push down" the brow shape if you pick too much.
4. Brush your eyebrows - When you have removed all the unnecessary straws and can distinguish a shape, then brush the brows but a brush. Is there still a lot to go? The straws you want to remove, are they stuck in that area, or are they just so long that they extend there? If they are long (stuck in the shape you want to keep), it is better to cut than to remove them completely.
5. Cut the brow - Take a little at a time if you are above, especially if you have sparse eyebrows, so you do not risk cutting too much. Cut in front if your straws grow upwards. Cut at the bottom if your straws grow down and cannot be combed to the side. Do you have obsessive-compulsive browns that stand out in other places? Cut them too!
6. Finputsa - When you are done with your shape, you can polish it. Remove the last small strands to get a clean shape. Brush the straws to the right, look straight into the mirror, are they relatively similar on both sides or should more straw be removed from one side? Remove small blemishes around the eyebrows with an eyebrow knife.
Top the whetstone can be found in my webshop Creativemakeup.se! Very effective and stays sharp thanks to the fact that it is collapsible, so it does not get worn and dull from lying in the make-up bag.
4. Color the eyebrows
Picking eyebrows makes a big difference, but coloring can have an even greater effect!
Here I stand and color the eyebrows of a satisfied eyebrow customer ♥
Color selection - I definitely recommend the tan colors from Refectocil which I work with. Many customers who have tried other brands (in other salons or home paints) say that nothing is as durable as these.
Dark eyebrows: Natural brown
Medium light eyebrows: Mix natural brown and light brown
Light cold brows: Mix light brown and granite. Or light brown and just a tiny bit of natural brown.
Light warm eyebrows: Light brown
Note that you have to mix the color with the hydrogen peroxide from the same brand.
Color before or after picking? - Exactly when to color the eyebrows is a little different depending on how your eyebrows look. I always pick some before dyeing, but on people with light and / or sparse eyebrows I dye quite directly. On some with clearer eyebrows, I color as the last step.
Color eyebrows - Apply the brow color as a nice shape on the brows, pull with a top along the edges and make an even shape. Even though only the straws are dyed, the color easily sticks to the skin immediately afterwards, so it is much nicer if you apply the color carefully instead of a thick lump :)
Are you above? Let the color ache for just a very short while and check what it looks like, then you can apply again if you want more color. The longer the color aches, the better the durability, but some people prefer a more natural result immediately after and prefer to dye more often instead.
Eyebrow color on blonde eyebrows. They looked sparse before the coloring but suddenly she had even with straws all over the brow :)
Many blondes have a lot of blemishes around the eyebrows that are perfect to color into the brow. The result is fuller and on some people it is also possible to get a wider shape thanks to the fjunen.
Same here, where do all the straws come from? Sometimes you get shocked yourself when you wipe off the tan and see the result :)
5. Fill in the eyebrows
Why everyone not only picks and colors, but also fills in the eyebrows with makeup, it can be due to several things:
- You have gaps or other irregularities in the brow where the straw does not grow
- To get them fuller and with a clearer shape
- Emphasizes thin hairs, e.g. with a brim
Here is a shape where we made up the eyebrows just to get the shape a little fuller and clearer. Nice before, nice after!
Here is a sparse eyebrow where we filled in to hide gaps in the outer edge. If you want a narrow shape but have sparse straws, the shape is often not completely even.
Here is a shape with very thin straws, where the bristle (and a little pencil as well) emphasizes the straws more.
6. Brow lift & brow serum
In conclusion, I also want to show the result that I myself have received with the brow serum BeautyLash Lash & Brow Booster which we sell at Creative Makeup in combination with the treatment brow lift. I see the effect of this serum on the salon regularly! Customers who use both eyebrows and lashes and get great results :)
It is a wide applicator with a narrow top, so it is easy to apply both on the brows and on the fringe.
My straws are ones that grow straight down, so I cut them a lot when I want a high shape. But with a brow lift treatment (which allows you to brush the straws upwards instead) I can use the serum and get long straws without cutting them. The result is full and nice eyebrows!
Also read my great post where I go through all about Brow Lift!
See the difference:
No, but lay eggs, what beautiful eyebrows I have now! :) Book a brow lift with us in Uppsala this spring online booking or call 018 10 50 13. Read the whole post about this eyebrow transformation here.
I want to end this post by emphasizing that exactly what a nice eyebrow shape looks like is incredibly much a matter of taste, and this is just a helpful post, no rules you have to follow :)
And hope that you who managed to read everything and liked my post about picking different eyebrow shapes, shout out if you have any questions ♥